The Kalalau Trail is the most popular multi-day hike in Hawaii and probably one of the most scenic in the world.
The 36km out and back trail can be completed in 2 days but most people will take a few extra days to relax (or to let their legs recover) and enjoy camping at a remote beach location along the Napali Coast on the island of Kauai.
This is a hike that requires a lot of planning all starting with trying to get permits. So, when my wife and I booked our flights to Hawaii and knew we would spend a week on Kauai, we decided to allocate 3 days to the Kalalau Trail. Camping permits are limited to 60 people per day and are only available 90 days in advance. I can’t say how popular the trail was prior to Covid, but watching how quickly permits were getting snapped up as I watched on the National Park’s website, I knew it was going to take a bit of luck to get the permits.
Our first attempt failed, and all 60 passes were taken in minutes before I could even log in to attempt to get them. Lesson learned and the next day we were ready to access the website through 2 computers and a mobile device refreshing every few seconds like a teenage Taylor Swift fan. And Success! I was able to register our details and paid for our 2 night & 3 day hiking - camping permits. 3 minutes later all permits were gone. I’d never been so relieved that franticly pressing the refresh button worked.
Hanalei Town. Stock up on supplies before you start.
The next few steps were easy to organise, car parking permits and with several companies renting camping gear at very reasonable price, all that was left to do was to watch YouTube videos of others doing to hike to see what we got ourselves into.
We started the hike on a rainy morning with heavy rain showers coming and going for the first few kms. As we approached the first river crossing a few km’s into the trail, we realised it was not a good idea to cross with the water levels so high and decided to detour and walk a short distance down to the beach. The beach itself is worth the walk, and for people without a permit, it's as far as you can go on a day trip. There is a pretty amazing waterfall up the valley at this point as well, if your legs allow for the extra kms.
The next few kms of the trail we got some amazing views down the coast looking towards our final destination as the clouds gave way to blue skies and rainbows.
 |  |
The hiking involved some gradual climbs as we went from coast walking to jungle trek. After a few hours, we arrived at the Hanakoa camp site which is a popular stop for lunch or anyone not wanting to walk the 18km in a day.
The next part of the trail is considered by some as the most dangerous (probably by the unlucky people who had to hike it in the rain and wind). Exposed sections of the trail high above the crashing ocean below can make even the most confident hiker reconsider the choice of taking this trek.
The most famous section of the trail, “Crawler's Ledge”, lived up to expectations and made for some great photo opportunities, but with dry conditions and steady footing, we passed by without any trouble. The heat really started taking its toll and the pace slowed, with one final downhill section to the beach, we were relieved to take off the packs and step-up camp.
 Crawler's Ledge |
If the movie “The Beach” wasn’t filmed in Thailand, this might have been then next best choice. The beach is wide golden sand surrounded by green vegetated cliffs and a waterfall at one end being the main water source for campers. There are plenty of camping sites for the 60 people and it never felt crowded. Other than the tourist boats passing by, you have the place to yourself. The next day was spent relaxing on the beach, exploring up the valley, swimming in refreshing waterholes and cooking up a feed to prepare for the hike out the next day.
Our home for the 2 nights
An early start to avoid the heat of the day gave us a pretty special sunrise as the sun lit up the cliffs behind us. With our thoughts firmly set on what flavour of shaved ice to get once we finished, the time passed quickly and the hike out went smoothly. Past Crawler’s Ledge and back to the river crossing, which was amazing to see how much less water there was 2 days later. Also I nice spot to take dip before the final few kms.
That afternoon we were back in Hanalei, enjoying our cool treats and a local beer. Hanalei is a cute little town and the last centre to stock up on supplies before the start of the hike and is worth a few days here before or after to explore the area.
I’ve been lucky enough to hike many of the great trails around the world, including Milford Track, Inca trail and Everest base camp, this is certainly up there as one of the most memorable and rewarding hikes.
If you’d like help booking and planning this hike or another walking holiday around the world, please reach out, I’d be happy to share my passion for walking holidays with you.
