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Posted 24/05/2023 in Australia

Western Australia - The Dream goes South


Western Australia - The Dream goes South


Southern Western Australia - Wine Country, Beaches and Geological Wonders.


From the moment you step off the plane in Perth (Boorloo), you are transported to a different time at a different pace.


I come from one of the larger, East Coast cities. When you land in Perth it's like landing in a Goldilocks-type place, where the weather is neither too hot nor too cold and the speed of life is perfectly balanced between cosmopolitan and Country. The food is sweeter and the water saltier. The skies are clear and pristine reefs, deserts and the enigmatic red dust of the outback invite you to lose yourself in time. The conditions are perfect for wine, cheese, surf breaks and strolls. Get lost in the backstreets and Bohemian vibe of Fremantle (Walyalup) or visit the bustling, modern and shimmering area of Elizabeth Quay (Goomup) where the bright lights are reflected in the pristine waters and stunning sunsets of the Indian Ocean. Spend the day exploring the delicatessens, cafes and boutique wine shops before relaxing with a picnic on the shores of Cottesloe Beach, one of 19 beautiful beaches situated within the City Limits off the Swan River. Award winning chefs flock to the region for the most spectacular local produce money can buy, and to forage for the unique bush tucker flavours that, these days, rightfully epitomise Australian fine dining. Visit The Lake House in Margaret River or make a booking at Wildflower on the rooftop of COMO hotel in the centre of Perth's CBD for 3-hatted, Australian-inspired gourmet cuisine.

Elizabeth Quay, Perth, Western Australia
Elizabeth Quay where the bright lights are reflected in the shimmering palette of an Indian Ocean sunset
Wildflower premium Australian restaurant, Perth, Western Australia
The finest of Australian Flavours in the heart of Perth's CBD at Wildflower Restaurant 


Making the most of Perth

You should always make some time to recover from a long flight in the city in which you land, and Perth is perfect for that. No matter how much you get stressed out by flying (even though I work in Travel, I'm not the biggest fan of planes!), this modern city set in the heart of nature is the ideal place for calm and a location perfect for adjusting to saltwater time. A multicultural mini-metropolis on the banks of a sparkling river with white beaches and a sky with a rainbow palette is impossible to resist. You'll find your walking speed dropping, gentle lifting of brain fog and everyday stress melting away. The mysteries of The Pinnacles, formed in an ancient, limestone-rich sea, await you in a new sea of golden dunes and otherwordly natural structures. During your first days in the West, take a rest and turn off your phone to make the most of the serene surrounding with a visit to car-free Rottnest Island (Wadjemup). Just 25 minutes away by ferry, this beautiful nature reserve is designed for peace and quiet, as long as you don't mind the incursion of playful seals and the occasional Quokka. This is the home of Australia's famously happy resident marsupials. Blow away the cobwebs with a refreshing coastal bike ride or grab a new experience on a guided segway tour to explore some of the hidden gems of this hidden paradise. The experience is your own to create so choose between glamping in the dunes or one of the top class island resorts. Make sure you make a booking through a travel agent that specialises in Western Australia to make sure you secure your dates - it's a small island that protects its laid-back vibe, so rooms fill up quickly. However, awe and wonder aren't seasonal and the weather is near perfect all year round so plan your trip and use Rottnest as a serene jumping off point for an excursion to either the North or South of this magnificent state.

Quokkas at Rottnest Island, Western Australia
Share the happiness with Rottnest Island's resident Quokkas

 
The Pinnacles, Western Australia
The otherwordly Pinnacles dotting the sandy sea



Should I head North or South in Western Australia?

Western Australia has the potential to be all things to all people. Life is what you make it, and that's the same with Australia's largest, most diverse state. Head south if your style of travel tends towards the luxurious and the trappings of inspirational vineyards. You'll find bonus sights - unique pink saltwater lakes such as Lake Hillier and Australia's whitest sands. You'll find some easier cultural tours on Country, such as the magnificent, gravity-defying Wave Rock and experience the wild Kangaroos at Lucky Bay. If your wish list extends to 4WD wilderness adventures, magnificent pristine reefs and in-depth explorations of culture and Country, then head North.


Whichever direction you choose to set your compass, never before seen locations await you at every turn. It's a big country out here, with skies to match. As you head out of Perth, you'll realise that the majority of the state could easily qualify as a Dark Sky haven. The twinkling diamonds of the cosmos only accentuated by the distance you are from the bright city lights. Join the original astronomers and camp out in World Heritage havens as your Aboriginal guides take you through gorges, fantastical geological formations and some of the most deserted, untouched beaches in the world.

Lake Hillier Pink Lake near Esperance, South Western Australia
Stunning Lake Hillier near Esperance 
Wave Rock iconic Aboriginal rock formation, Western Australia
Wave Rock in the central south of the region



Heading South on the road to Country and Cuisine.

Going south from Perth feels like less of an excursion than a walk through stunning coastline that transitions into temperate forests and pink lakes. If you choose to rent a 4WD, you can make it a round trip and spend some time travelling through ancient Country and culture on the way back to Perth. In all, the total amount of driving is a very manageable 20hrs from door to door so it's perfect for a full week's itinerary. Take State Road 2 and head in the direction of Margaret River. From Perth to the town of Margaret River is an easy 3 hour drive, so you can do it all in one go if you like, but if you have the time to meander rather than rush through this breadbasket of Australia, then you'll have time to spend dolphin watching in Rockingham over a picnic lunch or taking a sunset bike ride to blow away the cobwebs on Busselton Pier. I recommend doing both along the way so you arrive at Margaret River in time for a gourmet dinner and a well-earned rest.

Margaret River Wine Region wine tours
The Vineyards of Margaret River
Busselton Jetty South Western Australia
Busselton Jetty


Spend a good couple of days based in the town of Margaret River.

This is the jumping off point for the thousands of individual, boutique Vineyards that dot the region. Join a guide at a specific estate who will take you from vine to table or join one of the many daily wine tours visiting cellar doors in the region. Once you've had your fill of award-winning wine, cheese and utter indulgence, it's time to get back on the road again. Today is a big day, that takes you from ancient forests to the coast and back again, before arriving in Esperance. Here, you'll find the charm of a frontier town combined with some of the most wonderful, unique restaurants and the whitest beaches in all of Australia (it's been documented). I started straight after breakfast so I had time for the perfect break from the driving by spending a few hours over a leisurely lunch at The Lake House. This gourmet hideaway is just about as far south as you can get in Western Australia and is run by Masterchef favourite, Alla Wolff-Tasker. Make sure you make a booking as it's a favourite stop for anyone on the road from Margaret River to Esperance in either direction. Get back on the road through the forest before bursting back onto the coast at Esperance for an evening's relaxation in readiness for a day or two spent exploring the incomparable, wild, white-sand beaches and pink salt lakes that look like they belong on another planet. If you can splurge on a helicopter or seaplane ride at any point in your trip down south, this is the place to do it. You'll soar over a kaleidoscope of colours that look more likely to collide on an artist's palette than in a natural setting.

The Lake House restaurant run by Alla Wolff-Tasker South West Australia
The Lake House, Denmark
The whitest beach in Australia at Lucky Bay near Esperance, South Western Australia
Lucky Bay, near Esperance


Time for an outback experience on ancient Country?

Of course, you can fly back to Perth from Esperance, but if you hired the 4WD that we did, you can have a bit of dreamtime adventure to set you up for your flight to reality. It's an 8 hour drive from Esperance to Perth, so my recommendation is to take a break to sit out under the dark night skies and listen to the stories of an Aboriginal guide as you dine out on bush tucker under the endless canopy of stars. Wave Rock is a cultural safe of Aboriginal stories, waiting to be broken into and understood. It's a geological marvel that has endured millennia of history in the face of the modern age, yet still stands as a testament to the connection between humans and country. The following day take you back to Perth through isolated outback roads that will help you feel minuscule in front of endless, powerful nature.


Find out more about visiting Western Australia here