We've always been a travelling family, and with our eldest heading into high school next year, we wanted to check off everything on our bucket list for this next adventure.
After spending some time in Hawaii and cruising from Hawaii to Vancouver, we decided the best way to explore Canada was by self-driving. I was a bit nervous about driving on the other side of the road, but it turned out to be easy (it was the fancy car I had to get used to). We picked up our car in downtown Vancouver and headed to Hope. The drive was simple, with just three turns and then straight along the Trans-Canada Highway 1 for a few hours.
We arrived in Hope, BC, after four hours (due to traffic). I had passed through this town over 20 years ago, and it hadn't changed a bit. We booked an Airbnb on the river, offering spectacular scenery. We headed straight for the local supermarket to stock up on supplies for the next few days. With a BBQ, kitchen, and fire pit, we had amazing meals while the kids enjoyed making s'mores. We were fortunate enough to witness the northern lights on our first night, which was breathtaking with the tall trees in the background. We made snacks and sandwiches for the day and spent our first day exploring the town, checking out all the Rambo filming locations and the beautiful wooden animal statues that line the main street. The town's quirkiness, quietness, and old buildings, like the cinema, are what I love most about Hope. In the afternoon, we explored the local trails and sights just five minutes from downtown.
Smores by the river at our cabin in Hope
On day two, we visited the local tourist office, which was incredibly helpful and recommended some spots we hadn't considered. We drove an hour to Lightning Lake in EC Manning Park. The kids and my husband were amazed by the lake's colours and the snow covering the back of the lake. We walked the trails to the snow section and had our first encounter with wildlife, seeing a lynx in the forest. It was a bit scary and surreal to see all the "Beware of Bear" signs, and as we trekked into the forest, I could see how easy it would be to encounter one. After walking around the lake for a few hours, we had lunch and briefly stopped at the Manning Park Resort on the way back.
A spectacular rainbow at Lightning Lake
Crossing the river at Hell's GateDay three involved packing up and driving along Highway 4, covering 400 km to Clearwater. It was my first time filling up the car with petrol, and I had to ask for help, but the self-service system was brilliant and cheaper than back home. We planned stops along the way: Yale, with its historical buildings and a post office by a beautiful river; Hell's Gate, where we used the air tram to cross the river; and the BC Wildlife Park. We also passed through Lytton, Spencer's Bridge, Cache Creek, and Savona. Our first Tim Hortons experience did not disappoint. The drive offered a mix of thick forests, desert surroundings, winding roads, and teepee villages. We arrived in Clearwater in the late afternoon, checked into our motel, and headed to a local diner for dinner.
Day four was an early start as we geared up for white-water rafting down the Wells Gray River. After a 3.5-hour adventure with amazing guides, we drove 350 km to Jasper, stopping at Helmcken Falls and Mount Robson National Park, where we hiked the 10 km Berg Trail. Kinney Lake, at the end, was breathtaking, and although we heard some bear growling during the walk, it added to the excitement. As we approached Jasper, we had our first black bear encounter, with a big male bear chilling on the roadside. Our accommodation in Jasper was at Alpine Village, which was worth the extra cost. The kids called the 5-star Gingerbread cabins, which featured a floor-to-ceiling fireplace and heated stone floors. After settling in, we made a lovely dinner and sat outside on the patio.
Day five was spent exploring Jasper National Park. We took the sky tram up the mountain, enjoyed the snow, and admired the view over Jasper and its surrounding lakes. We hiked Maligne Canyon for a few hours, then visited Athabasca Falls. Back in Jasper, the kids and my husband relaxed in the hot tub while I prepared the fireplace. We had a memorable experience with a grizzly bear exploring the forest near our cabin.
Enjoying views of the river near our cabin at 10.30pm!
Day six was a leisurely day of shopping and eating in town. On the way, we had another black bear encounter, this time with a mother and her two cubs. After some food, we headed towards the Icefields, stopping at Sunwapta Falls and Angel Falls before checking into the Glacier View Lodge. We had a private tour of the Skywalk and enjoyed playing in the snow.
Day seven included a private walking tour of the glacier, thanks to our stay at the Glacier View Lodge, which offers exclusive access. We took the Ice Explorers to the glacier and spent 40 minutes on the ice. The experience was both awe-inspiring and saddening, given how quickly the glacier is retreating. We then drove towards Banff, with stops at Mistaya Canyon and Peyto Lake, which was still mostly frozen. Arriving in Banff, we stayed at the Bow River Lodge and enjoyed the spa and pool after dinner in town.
Stunning mountain views on the drive to Banff.
Day eight was rainy but didn't affect our plans. We spent the morning exploring Johnston Canyon and drove along Bow Valley Highway, admiring the scenery and wildlife. The afternoon was spent relaxing in the hot springs, followed by a meal at the Spaghetti Factory.
Our snowman at Lake LouiseDay nine was magical. We woke up to my daughter yelling that it was snowing outside. We headed to Lake Louise for the day, where the lake was still frozen but beautiful. Despite the tourists, the experience was fantastic, and the girls enjoyed making a snowman by the lake's edge. Unfortunately, Moraine Lake was closed.
Day ten was bittersweet as we headed back to Vancouver to start our next adventure, a cruise to Alaska. We drove six hours towards Kamloops, stopping at Emerald Lake, the Natural Bridge, the Northern Lights Wolf Sanctuary, Revelstoke National Park, and the Enchanted Forest before arriving in Kamloops for the night.
On day eleven, we got up early to drive back to Vancouver, experiencing snow, rain, sunshine, and a 40-minute drive through clouds, all within four hours. We returned the car, walked our luggage to the cruise terminal, and boarded the Brilliance of the Seas, setting sail for Alaska (read about our Alaska family cruise here).
Overall, I highly recommend self-driving in the Rockies and Canada. You get to see so much and have the flexibility to stop wherever you want. We saw many unique things in small towns that would have been missed on a tour. Driving was easy, and refuelling was even easier. I recommend getting accommodations with kitchenettes to save money on food. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out to me - I'd love to help or give further feedback.
