Review of cruising the Bengal region onboard the beautiful Ganga Voyager.
Any journey begins with excitement and anticipation - or should - and arriving into Kolkata in readiness for another adventure in India signifies both. The dark of night looms and then is transformed into the cool of a very early morning as I arrive at our hotel. Beginning this journey 2 days after my husband and friend has given me much time to contemplate the joys of travelling.
Our mission for this trip is to explore the magical and inspiring Sundarbans in the south as they twist and flow towards the Bay of Bengal. We begin in the formerly named Calcutta, so called due to a miscommunication in language between a local and a British Captain. This might be a myth, as the Bengali name Kalikata refers to the land of the Goddess Kali. No matter the truth, the city is so alive 24 hours of every day with more taxis and other forms of transport than one can count, that discrepancies in her origin seem unimportant.
Kolkata is of course well known for its famous cricket ground – Eden Park, which we pass several times as we do the rounds of the local monumental and historical sites. Our first day also has us visiting the oldest Anglican Church in Kolkata. Built in 1756, St John's features the oldest functioning pipe organ in India and a painting of the Last Supper by German artist Johann Zoffany, who gave an Indian touch to the Biblical event. There are Indian swords and goat skin water bags with smaller additions giving the artwork a distinctive Indian touch. The tombs of British Generals who died during the Siege of Kolkata in 1756 are most fascinating, especially the young ages of many who served. Originally a Cathedral, it was transferred to Church status in 1847 when the new Cathedral was built.
Queen Victoria Memorial, Kolkata
Aside from the recent history, Kolkata has slightly different places of interest, including the Botanical Gardens where we find the largest Banyan Tree in existence covering 14,500 square metres and listed as over 250 years old. Another iconic memorial is that of Queen Victoria, built in 1906 by the British Government. In 1877 she was proclaimed Empress of India even though she had never visited the country. The British felt that this would cement the ties between the two nations. 
Our welcome aboard the Ganges Voyager.
As a new day dawns, we begin our river cruise on the GANGA VOYAGER, departing on the Hooghly River, also called the Ganga.
Our boarding is both warm and welcoming with a traditional marigold lei placed around each of our necks, and our Hindu Bindi applied as a blessing for a pleasant journey in brightness and positivity. All that remains now is to be shown to our respective cabins and what a delight that is.
We have been allocated a Colonial Suite, which is the epitome of classic British and Indian décor combined to perfection. The timber touches are in perfect harmony with the soft red scrollwork framing the walls with two stunning photos of what I believe to be Varanasi at the back of our bed.
Colonial Suite onboard the Ganga Voyager
As we sail into the sunset, our boat is crisscrossed by smaller fishing vessels in search of the best places to cast their nets in the lateness of the afternoon. What an image this has created with the golden hues of the falling sun tinged on the horizon with shades of apricot and a paler shade of pink as it sends forth a long beam of light on the river's surface, which appears to be cradling a small vessel as it bounces lightly away. A perfect finish to the beginning of our sailing.
By now, we are familiar with the impeccable service on the Ganga Voyager. We very rarely have to open a door for ourselves, and we fell in love with the staff who genuinely made you a part of the ANTARA VOYAGES family. The food onboard is a wonderful blend of local cuisine and Western tastes with nothing left to chance for our evening meal.
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We awaken to a blissfully clear day and the smells of a sumptuous breakfast. Once again, we are spoilt for choice, and no matter your taste there is always something to nourish the body or awaken your senses. Fresh fruits combined with local dishes and the omelette station is always kept busy. As one would expect of a five-star luxury cruise everything was impeccable from the local experiences to the entertainment. The young men who were at our every beck and call were so conscientious and dedicated to their station. It is evident just how much they value their work and the experience of their passengers.
Today is a full day on the clear waters of the Ganga as we head into the Sundarbans passing the town of Namkhana.
This area is known mostly for its fishing industry but also boasts a few nice island getaways like Mousuni, which are popular with the local people. The UNESCO protected Sundarbans stretch forth to the mighty Bay of Bengal in the south while also flowing to Bangladesh in the east. The largest mangrove forest in the world and an ecological paradise, the changes in the landscape are somewhat like unveiling a very large water colour painting. Colours change from pastel greens with lush horizons filled with forests and rich orange glows splashed with lolly pink then fading to a more pastel hue as the sun sets throwing more shadows over the expansive body of water.
Incredible colours of sunset on the River Ganges
The ecosystem is teaching us about the steps that can and are being taken to preserve not only the wildlife but the mangroves, which protect the waterways with clear waters and clean air. It is also noted that mangroves provide an infrastructure for protection by controlling water surges and preventing erosion. During Hurricane season, populated areas fare better due to the denseness of the mangroves as well as providing a safe haven for the local wildlife. Cruising past these ancient 'upside down trees' with dense exposed roots, we become warriors of the nature spotting brigade.
We encounter something completely unexpected on the Ganga, hundreds of cargo vessels either sailing toward Kolkata or anchored, awaiting their turn to move on. We sailed so close to them all and it became a matter of which way to turn to capture the moment. Aptly named 'Ship Alley', I would have to say it was an amazing site. A short distance later we dock at one of the two watchtowers on the voyage – one known as Bony Camp. There is not a great deal of wildlife about with the exception of a hoard of rhesus macaque monkeys and one deer, which quickly dashes behind the bushes. Spotting other wildlife is always chancy.
'Ship Alley'
We have changed direction slightly and now sail on the Matla River traversing the Hero Bhangra Islands towards Bali Island and the village where we meet the local people who are the caretakers of the Bali Nature & Wildlife Conservation Society. They are in collaboration with the Wildlife Protection Society of India and with the local NGO project supporting the communities living around the Tiger Reserve to encourage them to view wildlife and their environment as an asset rather than a threat. Our time here is short, but talking to the ladies of the village was a highlight for us.
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Today we go on the hunt for wildlife that just might visit the water's edge.
There are mixed emotions for all as we would delight in seeing the Bengal Tiger but are made aware that they are not compatible with the salt water that surrounds the mangroves. It increases their blood pressure which ultimately slows their movements and possibly shortens their life. However, we have also learned of the many water holes that collect fresh water, including rain, that are scattered across the plain. So the dilemma is we wish to see them but if we don't it is far better for the tiger. The end of this story is that we sailed for hours with not a tiger in site. Instead we had a lovely morning spotting a few deer and wild boar.
One thing that affects a cruise in this region is that you are at the mercy of the tides which can be a blessing and a curse. Having to show patience had its moments with seeing the interaction of the local people along the water's edge as they bathed and did their washing all in the one spot.
We now return sail through the night to Kolkata, arriving late afternoon the following day. I need to acknowledge the local entertainment onboard each evening, especially a local dance troupe from Kolkata with a spectacular cultural dance display. I doubt there was one face that was not glued to the dancers as they twirled with grace and incredible speed.
Nightly entertainment, a local dance troupe from Kolkata
I would give this cruise a 5-star recommendation and suggest that some of the other itineraries are worth considering. India is a place of constant surprises and delightful moments.
If you'd like to join us on our next trip to India, please get in touch to register your interest. You can learn more about this beautiful destination through my travel blog about Bikaner or my tips for visiting Rajasthan.
