Scoot sounds like a dance routine, doesn't it? The mention of the name brings images of the boot-scootin' days of dance to the front of my mind. However, as we land in the capital of Lao – Vientiane – I am grateful to Scoot for a smooth and enjoyable flight from Singapore. To say that our anticipation for this adventure is full of good vibrations would be an understatement. After the prolonged confinement of the pandemic, we are finally exploring again. I must say that I was a little nervous at the onset. Flights being overbooked, travellers missing connections as a result, and stories of lost luggage, just to name a few thoughts swirling through my head. All are shared by my clients who are travelling with me for the first time in many years as well. How joyous it is to have an incident-free arrival into Vientiane and be met by my long-time friend and guide, Somphone, it feels like coming home.
Fortunately, the best way to attain our visas for Lao is on arrival. It is so easy and takes us no time to fill in the small form and pay the required USD $40. As we settle into the van, you can almost hear the joint sighs of relief as we make our way through the lush countryside for the journey into the city. The airport is located just 5.5 kilometres from Vientiane, so it is a pleasant ride, unlike other airports that are so far away from your destination. Our stay on this occasion is at the LAO ORCHID HOTEL, chosen due to its location and traditional décor. We each have rooms overlooking the Wat Ong Teu Monastery and the mighty Mekong River.
Sometimes I think that the world is a funny place when even a small country like Lao is so focused on shopping. This is our experience as we walk to the corner and patiently wait to cross the road to the Night Market located alongside the Mekong River. Stall upon stall of garments and mobile phone covers, shoes and jewellery, each with much the same thing at much the same price. As we emerge from the mask-wearing pandemic, we first notice the lack of said masks as we dodge and weave our way first to the left and then the right, walking down every aisle and browsing what is not necessarily locally made goods. In fact, much comes from China and Korea. Nonetheless, the abundance of people and the smiling, optimistic faces are not lost on me.
Of interest is the attitudes of most locals, one that seems to say, 'We must live with this – so let us just get on with living'. Lao is one of the fortunate countries that locked down quickly from province to province preventing greater transmission. Combined with a strong vaccination programme, they avoided much of what the rest of the world was experiencing.
Rest is begging, so we are all happy to oblige. Today we are heading to what is often referred to as Vientiane's hidden gems. Wat Sisaket, considered one of the capital's most beautiful temples, is not large, however, it holds a special history and is the only temple in Laos to survive the Siamese occupation. There are over 10,000 Buddha housed in the outer buildings that date back as far as 1818. The main temple features a 5 tier roof in the deepest shades of red marked by age, with the shingles resembling blackened wood.
Wat Phra Keo is our next temple. Emblazoned with rich gold doors surrounded in a mid-tone red, the temple is now a museum. As we climb to the terrace, we are surrounded by bronze Buddhas, many dating back to the 6th century through to the 9th century. Our first antiquity is a 2,000-year-old stone jar from the Plain of Jars of the Xieng Khouang Plateau. Putting this into perspective is rather sobering, knowing what a small amount of time we are on this earth.
Time to take a break from temples as we visit the C.O.P.E centre, designed to raise awareness of the war within Laos from the battling American and Vietnamese forces. As we walk past several hundred cluster bombs suspended from netting in the ceiling of the warehouse-style display, trying to imagine not only the fear but the devastation to entire families, putting one's own life into perspective suddenly becomes very important. Hanging from corners and balancing against rough wooden bench seats are prosthetic legs, many starting from the hip with the feet, all in different colours to match those of the injured. What is heartbreaking are the sizes, many are made for small children. Photos on the wall are stark reminders with stories of those who simply bent over to pull up a vegetable to suddenly find they no longer had an arm and a leg. Mr Siafong never thought he would have two arms again, but thanks to COPE, he now has a chance at life once again. This may not sound very much like an ideal place to visit on a 'holiday', but for those who do see the importance of remembering what war can do, it is a must-see. 
Now, back to the architecture of Vientiane and the PATUXAY Monument. Said to resemble the Arc du Triomphe, it was built to honour those who perished during the war with France for independence. Surrounding streets show French influence in many of their buildings, especially those of the government.
Our final Buddhist Temple for the day is that of That Luang. The sun shines golden from every corner, every niche and every angle in this magnificent holy site. The largest stupa in Vientiane glistens with rays of light. No wonder it is considered to be the most sacred site in the city. Sadly, as with much of the city, it was decimated by war, but the 3rd century AD temple has undergone several reconstructions to restore it to its former glory. Within the grounds is the reclining Buddha, serene amongst the tree-lined gardens. Gloriously peaceful, it is an ideal place to sit and meditate, if you so wish, in the stillness that seems to surround this temple.
A recent addition to Lao is the railway linking the towns and cities. Note: you are best to engage a guide for the ticketing system. We have chosen Business Class as there is very little price difference. After negotiating their security, and I use that word loosely, we are herded into lines to await the arrival of the fast train which will spirit us to Vang Vieng north of Vientiane. The town is small, but the main attractions are a set of deep limestone caves, the most visited being the Tham Poukham. With its reclining Buddha and a stunning misty blue-green lagoon, it could have easily just popped out of an impressionist painting or, at the very least, inspired one. The entire region is popular with visitors, offering barbeque areas and a lovely swimming pool. The flying fox that swings around the local river is tempting, except for the murky brown water stirred up from recent rains. The rains are coming; not a good time to slip and slide down into caves. Angel Cave, also located within the park, is easier to negotiate for us oldies and gives us enough of a glimpse at what the area holds. On a sunny day, it is easy to see that it could be considered a local amusement park. Unfortunately, enjoying the sunset on the Nam Song River is not an option, with the rain making itself heard. Thankfully we have a beautiful hotel on the edge of the river, which enables us to wine and dine in style. The food is wonderful, and the ambience is more than divine. We are almost a little reluctant to leave the BOUTIQUE RIVERSIDE HOTEL, but it is time to head back to the train station for our next city of note, Luang Prabang.
The French influence is ever present in Luang Prabanggas a reminder of the days when the French held sway in the city. Itwas once the ancient capital and remained so until 1975. Lying at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan Rivers, the city has a charm many dream of. Each time I travel there, I feel the tranquillity calms even the most restless soul. Famous of course, for her many temples, Luang Prabang is host to an array of exquisite hotels and experiences. Many are traditional like the Mekong River View Hotel or the Burasari, which we called home for four nights. The Sofitel combines luxury with tradition and is often the hotel of choice by larger companies. In the heart of the city is the more modern Avani, definitely a home away from home. On the outskirts of town, you will find the most amazing glamping hotel. The Rosewood company offers both unique tented stays and a boutique resort that I can honestly say could become a home at any time. All of the popular names, such as Aman and Pullman also offer nothing short of luxurious stays. 
Luang Prabang is a UNESCO city known for the ancient Wat Xieng Thong Temple, amongst others that I will introduce to you one by one. Famous for the ritual ALMS offerings to the saffron-robed monks early each morning, an event that is a highlight of the day, Luang Prabang is one of those places that gets into your heart. It is not rife with touristy gimmicks but alive with beautiful people trying to make a living. It is a little sad to see many shops still closed, but with tourism gaining momentum, I am sure they will soon be back to pre-covid business. A deluge marks our first night as we walk through the night market. One could not help but feel sorry for the many stallholders fighting back the rain with tarps that fill with water as soon as they are emptied. Our oversized umbrellas only become a hindrance as they are too wide for the gaps between tarps. Not to be deterred, my travel buddy and I still manage to help out by purchasing some beautiful items. After much laughter, we returned to our hotel, soaked to the skin with another moment to last a lifetime - a 'remember when' memory.
There is such a long history in this region that one is easily caught up in the stories that linger. Wat Xieng Thong, the most revered temple in the city, dates back to 1560. Built by King Setthathirat, it features some of the most intricate mosaics of any temple in the country. The outside belies what lies within. The temple is wrapped in the spirit of religion, a feeling that swirls around you as you take in the old Buddhas and the artwork on the walls.
Today we take a break from visiting temples as we board a motorised longboat for our short journey to the other side of the Mekong. The quiet village of Ban Chan can be seen perched high on the incline as we negotiate the reeds before climbing the stairs to this delightful setting. Chooks roam freely, dodging us as we follow our host. The Pottery House is owned and run by a local family the Lamphets who are responsible for marketing the town's pottery to International and local buyers. This village has a long history with the old Kings as they made bricks and pavers, and vessels to store and carry an assortment of things. Sadly as with every small craftsman, larger facilities are producing more reliable items at a far cheaper cost leaving boutique makers in a position of affordability concerns. After a visit to a much bigger kiln and storage facility, we head back to the small showroom to try our hand at the pottery wheel and create our own small piece and memory. We follow this with a traditional local lunch that includes crisp river weed – khaiphaen - dipped in spices and sesame seeds before being deep-fried. Not to let the thought of what it is and the deep black colour put us off, we are all sharing this delicacy with the satisfaction of trying something new, which, as it turns out, isn't too bad. The spicy papaya salad needed to be followed up by a large sip of tea. The delightful surroundings are not lost as we are perched high up in a loft with the gentle breezes cooling what has turned into a hot and steamy day following the rains.
A new day – a new adventure. One of my favourite places to visit on the outskirts of Luang Prabang is the KUANG SI WATERFALLS and the Black Bear Rescue Centre. Neither ever disappoint. If you are there in the rainy season, you will see an incredible amount of brown water; if you are there in the dry season, that very same water will be turquoise, but there won't be as much of it. We are here in the rainy season yet again, but it is still an incredible site to behold. On our return to the city we make two stops, the first at the Lao Buffalo Dairy farm and the second at one of many elephant sanctuaries. Arriving back to Luang Prabang in plenty of time allows us to climb the 328 stairs to the summit of Mt Phousi for a panoramic view of the airport and both rivers.
Yesterday was a hot one, so we appreciate a cooler day to visit the LIVING LAND, an organic community farm producing mostly rice and organic vegetables. Everything is interactive, from learning about good and bad rice to separating stalks and planting them in knee-deep water. My feet have never looked as good as they did after this experience. We meet Suzanne, a delightfully calm buffalo with the most amazing big eyes and long eyelashes to make anyone envious. Who would know that rice from beginning to end is a 13-step process? Participating in the sugar cane crushing for juice is enlightening, the amount of effort required is minimal and a lot of fun. The rice wine is not to my liking, but the small rolled pancakes and the rice snacks served on a banana leaf certainly are.
Tonight we are experiencing something new to Lao, the PAKOU FLOATING HUTS located on the river at Ban Muang Keo near the Pakou Caves of 3000 Buddhas. Our journey from the Ock Pop Tok weaving centre to the village of Pakou takes just under 2 hours on the Mekong, and it is a magical way to see small villages along the waterway.
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The morning brings a hot and sunny outlook as we journey the short distance to the cave of 3000 Buddha statues. With the heat of the day increasing, we decided to visit the larger main cave. Many of the Buddha statues appear to be quite ancient, and many are stored high in the cave amongst a colony of bats. Nonetheless, the morning here is interesting, and it is good to visit before the crowds arrive as the space is not built for large numbers at a time.
A pleasant interlude follows, at the local village of Pakou. We play with the children and interact with the generations of women. Just as we arrive we see a young boy who has just been bitten by a scorpion. The pain on his face was heartbreaking. Seeing how the elder women deal with such things was eye-opening. No fuss, no bother, burn the poison out, numb the area with a dab of heated wood, and then rub ash into the sting. The children are certainly raised to be resilient. The tears of the little lad tugged at our hearts.
This afternoon my guests will be treated to a Baci Ceremony at the villas. The ceremony is performed to welcome guests or for many different celebrations such as a birth or a wedding. The Lao people believe that each person has 32 spirits within, and sometimes some may escape. The blessing is designed to bring them back into the body to unify our essence. A traditional Lao barbeque follows accompanied by a few glasses of vodka and tonic.
Due to Luang Prabang's airport not yet open, it is time to return to Vientiane on the Lao China train once again. We make a short stop along the way to Ban Xangkhong, a village renowned for papermaking, silk weaving and beautiful artwork. A few happy faces appear once we have loaded our purchases into a full carry bag. Our entry to the waiting hall at the station is nowhere near as fraught with officious customs officers as our initial journey into Luang Prabang.
Our arrival into Vientiane is uneventful as our driver Oun delivers us safely to the LAO POET HOTEL for our 2-night stay. Quite ironically, the manager Robert is Australian and, when home, lives just one hour north of me. While one street back from the hotel on our first stay, it is not long before we orient ourselves with the night market and those sites that we loved on our arrival previously. A celebration cocktail is in order at the TIPSY ELEPHANT as we watch the beautiful sunset over the Mekong River for the last time.
Another adventure is over all too soon, and we board our flight heading back to Singapore.
