What could wondrous possibly mean, absolutely delightful with a sense of intrigue thrown in for good measure, or my favourite description – inspiring a feeling.
Travel has a way of doing this no matter where we are and Vietnam is up there with the best of the best and for reasons you may not yet know.
Believe it or not, writing about the country is not a blanket story but one of individual magnificence as the landscape, history and colour emanate from every moment. Each blink of an eye shows us something different, and the delightful smells of the local food carry us toward some of the wonderful street stalls and cafes.
Looking at a map of Vietnam, you will easily note that the country is long but not wide. I hear you thinking, ‘and so?’ This indicates that the landscape is varied and quite mountainous in places, and the importance of this fact will become evident as we begin our journey.
I am not sure of the reason, but many travellers head straight to Ho Chi Minh City (old Saigon) as a starting point. Just to be different, we chose the capital Hanoi, not because it is a large and bustling city, but because there is something hypnotic about traffic on steroids and learning how to safely negotiate your way around the lively and almost charismatic way of life.
Hanoi
For those who have been to Hanoi, you will be laughing, no doubt, as you visualize the dodging of bikes and vehicles coming at you from every direction. I cannot stress enough that you should not let this put you off starting here. For some, it may be a bit of a jolt to the senses, but there is an element of daring and fun about being amongst the chaos that is synonymous with Hanoi, and I encourage the traveller to think of it in these terms. This is where it all begins, with daring and a robust love of life in the fast lane.
Now that we are over the shock of millions of people on motorbikes, we can really explore the beauty and culture without distractions.
One of the big draw cards in Hanoi is Train Street. If the idea of almost being able to reach out and touch an engine and its carriages as it passes by small cafés loaded with onlookers as they clamour for the best vantage point does not deter you, it can be full of excitement. The sound of the whistle letting the crowds know to stand back as the engine slowly makes its way through a narrow track between the buildings might just be one of the thrills of your life. In any other country, occupational health and safety would have a field day. Sadly, we were told of a tourist who had been hit and killed a few weeks prior to our arrival. The temptation to get that snap of the train head-on can be overwhelming, but when you consider the track is elevated, one can easily trip as it rumbles by. The knack is to get the photo from a safe distance as the giant on wheels approaches. It is an easy fix to zoom in when you get back to your hotel. Who will know then how far or close you really were?
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The small child in everyone seems to emerge when toys are bigger than life and we were no different. The rules near the track are simple, during the day you go with one of the stall holders, buy a coffee or a drink, then sit and wait for the train to round the corner.
My tip for avoiding the train track officials is to wait until they finish at 6 pm. You are then free to head to one of the stalls without having to pay Dong – the local currency.
Hanoi is noted for some stunning hotels, all centrally located. Many are boutique while others offer more rooms that are generous in size and pleasant in their décor.
You are never too far from Hoan Kiem Lake, where many of the locals gather for photos and tourists can sit and relax. The Red Bridge (Huc) is one of the main attractions with a dazzling image created when lit in the evening. The bridge leads to the 400-year-old Ngoc Son Temple, built and dedicated to Princess Lieu Hanh, one of the four immortals in Vietnamese mythology. The Turtle Tower in the centre of the lake is where the Golden Turtle Genie is said to sleep. Legend has it that the Genie presented a sword to King Le Loi to defeat invaders. He then returned the sword to the lake and the giant turtle promptly disappeared beneath the deep water.
The Red Bridge at night
The concentrated colours and attention to the fine detail of the surrounding gardens create a perfect photographic opportunity. Street vendors load their bicycles with blooms of every variety then stop along the roadside as people clamour to purchase the spectacular arrangements. Life is certainly a constant flow of activity here in Hanoi.
For coffee lovers, you are well catered to with a vast array of cafes on almost every street corner. With the constant movement of both people and vehicles, you might enjoy time out and head up a few flights of stairs to sit for a time and overlook the lake and traffic.
Those of you wishing to purchase some of the beautiful arts and crafts, will not be disappointed. Always ask for the best price if it is something you really want. Remember, what seems like a lot in local Dong is probably not a great deal in your currency. There are some real bargains if you are skilled yet fair in your negotiations.
As the song suggests, ‘A new dawn a new day’ and we are very excited to be visiting the industrious Quang Phu Cao incense village. The 45-minute drive is pleasant as we take in more of the countryside. I think that if you are not familiar with the village, you will be in for a lovely surprise; I know my clients were. The presentation before us is an assault on your senses with an intense vividness of eye-popping colour. Bright red clumps of incense sticks surround others in bright gold in the shape of a star representing the flag of Vietnam. I think the only colour we did not see was blue but with the size of the display, one could not be sure of what colours might be missing.
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Quang Phu Cao incense village
As we move from shed to shed, we learn about the process involved in bringing the ‘sticks’ to life. From harvesting the bamboo- which is then split it into more manageable pieces – to the shredder and size sorter, we soon realise how detailed the entire process is. Once the bundles are completely dry, they are sent to be powdered in various incense scents. I believe that my clients were more than happy with the display and the photos they had taken.
The afternoon is now free to explore more of the vibrant capital. Just a stroll around Hoan Kiem Lake is a pleasant distraction from the buzz of the late afternoon traffic.
Ninh Binh, Trang An and Bai Dinh
Ninh Binh, Trang An and Bai Dinh are all on the agenda today. The 2.5 hour drive once again takes us through some lush countryside often depicted in images of Vietnam. The rice terraces, in particular, are fascinating based on the geography and the steep hillsides. Harvesting is over for the year so it is not quite as green as it is during the monsoon season. Ninh Binh is our first stop and it isn’t long before we can see the Bai Dinh Pagoda towering in the distance. It is purported to be the biggest Pagoda in South East Asia.
Trang An has us excited as we skim through the entry gates. There are no crowds today so once we collect our life jacket, we are ready to board a small row boat and meet the petite young local woman who will row us through the caves. It doesn’t seem appropriate to sit back and watch her do all the hard work. Fortunately, there are oars for each of us and the competitive side soon emerges as we pick up speed and lurch past other tourists. There are, however, parts of the river where a slower pace is nicer, especially when circling several temples and smaller pagodas. Another amazing moment and my clients are all smiling and laughing so definitely a stunning place to visit.
Two hours of rowing ends all too soon and we are off to our last destination for the day, the Mua (dancing) Cave in Ngoa Long Mountain. As we pass through the vibrant pink water lily farm, we are reminded of the beauty and lush nature of rural Vietnam. If stopping for more than a few hours appeals to you as a traveller, then there is accommodation available. I have to admit that we were very tempted to stay in the quiet and cool on what had been a steamy day. Oh wait, we have clients with us!
The view from the top of the mountain is breathtaking – or so my husband says as he was the only one to make the 500 steps in an almost vertical climb. To our credit, one of my clients and I made it to the 350 step point, which also afforded us a magical view and left us with a small amount of air in our lungs. The ladies who opted to stay behind and have coffee had to take our word for it on the view.
Our journey back to Hanoi is relaxed, but the best – or we hope – is yet to come.
Sapa
A first for us is our experience on the 10pm overnight sleeper train to the mountain city of Sapa. We arrive at 6am to rain and fine mist. This was a pleasant change from the steamy days we have left behind in Hanoi. Our guide Xu (Sue) is our first introduction to the mountain folk of the Red Zao, and what a delight she is.
The drive from Lao Cai train station to Sapa is a little over one hour of winding roads and quaint villages. By the time we arrive at the Highland Hotel, the drizzle has increased ever so slightly. I had no preconceived ideas about Sapa so it was a pleasant surprise to see local open-air markets with fresh local fruit and vegetables. Behind the square is an indoor market but I felt that the tourist price was in play. Breakfast is high on our agenda and with a view over the side street and plenty of delectable choices, the local restaurant is a great place to wait out the time until our rooms are ready. We now have the day to visit Fansipan Mountain by cable car.
More like a fairytale city built on the top of the mountain, we are greeted with cloud and more cloud even if the drizzle had subsided a little. The Gondola to the mountain top was a little crowded, however once there, we realised that the crowds wouldn’t matter as we would see very little through the mist and rain. The strong wind did very little to allay our disappointment. The idea of a hot coffee became very appealing.
Realising that we could not hide inside forever, we ventured out into the park to see if we could at the very least, visit a few of the temples. The whole mountain is very touristy and maybe it would be nicer in fine weather as it also has the distinct feeling of an amusement park. The mountain is the highest in Indochina at 3143 metres above sea level.
Checking in to our hotel we are very pleased to have rooms with balconies that overlook the city. Lunch is in a local restaurant and once again, we are treated to local flavours and delicacies. The only thing that was missing was ice cream. The rain is persistent, so spending time catching up on reading is most welcome as we make our way to our designated rooms.
With the rain giving way to a fine mist once more, we set out on our last day in Sapa. The air is fresh and pleasant, something to be considered as we soon will make our way back to the congestion of Hanoi. I am getting ahead of myself as the day has just begun.
Our guests have been looking forward to a local village visit and we were not disappointed today when wandering down through the Muong Hoa Village towards Lao Chai and an interaction with the Black Hmong people. Their village of Ta Van was like taking a step back in time or at the very least, that life has stood still for a very long time. All farmers and weavers, they have made their way through life in a simple way, working towards the same objectives as their forefathers. They are industrious in their labours and yet the feeling is that they will continue for generations to come in the same manner.
Another amazing lunch today, this time at the Red Zao Restaurant. Time to indulge in a few cocktails, it is after all our last full day in Sapa. The streets are walkable and encourage us to help the lunch reposition itself if you understand where this is going. As a hilly city, it is easy to convince oneself that exercise will burn off anything – for now.
Our limousine for the drive back to Hanoi is ultra-luxurious, and it is not long before I see those familiar bobbing heads in need of rest. Our ETA into Hanoi is around 8pm so there is plenty of time for dozing. Tomorrow there is more adventure in store.
All holidays need downtime with a sideline of fun, and our Halong Bay cruise is just what we have been waiting for. Two nights of pure relaxation and sumptuous food while anchoring in the bay with around 40 other boats creating a fairyland of golden lights. I had an image of Halong Bay from my journey some five years ago. I was not prepared for the assault on my memory. We make a short stop at a pearl farm but all we wished to do was find coffee and an ice cream or two -we find both. The changes are immense. Some years ago, the Chinese changed the landscape completely with an incredible amount of construction. Thousands of empty apartments grace the once stunning introduction to the bay.
You may be asking yourself why, and you can be forgiven for doing so, which is what we did upon seeing the endless holiday blocks. The short version is that Covid had a hand in the fate of the industry but there is a more sinister reason. Vietnam and China had a rather large falling out, and as a result, no visas are available, and no apartments can be purchased.
A quick greeting from the tour coordinator, then lunch is served. Another quick change before a transfer boat escorts us to a jetty with kayaks. Embarking on what can only be described as a laugh a minute, we explore the caves and small grottos in breathtaking surroundings that include sheer limestone mountains covered in lush plant life. The silence alone is palpable and more than welcome. Before returning to our floating hotel the Athena, we take a dip in the cool waters where a bit of frivolity takes place with our colleagues.
If you love your food, the five course dinner will leave you completely sated. Seafood is abundant in all shapes and forms but not the only choice available. It was definitely a good choice booking for two nights. Day one is Halong Bay and day two, Lan ha Bay. Both days we were able to swim in the glorious waters. It has been a long time since any of us has dived from a height off a boat – still got it. More canoeing and way too much food, all in a days work for intrepid travellers. All will sleep well tonight.
We are now back at the boarding station where we await the arrival of our limousine. Hundreds of other passengers who have disembarked also wait, causing a few traffic jams. Our last evening at the Rex Hotel but we still have a little time for some evening shopping, just in case we have forgotten something.
For some reason I am humming the song ‘Sunrise – sunset’. If you know it you are showing your age and will know what I am talking about.
Danang
Next stop, Danang. This is our first time flying with Bamboo Airlines, so we were interested to see if they measure up, and we are pleased to say that is a yes from us.
I realise that we do not expect places to stay the same but driving into the city from the airport is nothing like I remember. There is definitely more traffic and with the addition of roundabouts, you could swing me around and still there is very little recognition.
We have booked the Le Sands hotel on the beach front and we are not at all disappointed with the view across the South China Sea. In the distance, we can see the beautiful Linh Ung Pagoda (also known as Quan Yin). The Pagoda overlooks the beach which was used in the filming of the 1988 television series China Beach – loosly based on the Vietnam War. The Pagoda is a must-see when visiting Danang, even if only for the incredible statues and full-sized Bonsai.
Our next tourist must-see place is Marble Mountain. Here we step into the caves that sheltered hundreds, maybe thousands of Viet Cong. There was even a hospital underground during the time of war. The mountains are made of limestone and the 5 hills are said to represent the 5 elements of wood, water, metal, earth and fire. There are stairs to climb to the top, but we choose the lift for a small fee.
It is good to be aware that there are a lot of shops and stalls trying to sell you whatever your heart desires – or not – at the entrance and exit points.
The day has been hot and humid, and as a result, a storm is brewing out to sea, creating a spectacular view with deep grey cloud formations threatening a wild night ahead.
What do we care, we are on the rooftop bar well protected from the elements with cocktails and beer in hand and relaxing while waiting for our dinner to be served. This is the life.
Hue
History beckons once again, this time in the ancient city of Hue – pronounced “way”. It is a two-hour drive north along the coastal road, passing fishing villages on one side and lush mountains on the other. What a delightful way to relax while taking in the view.
Hue was once the feudal capital of Central and South Vietnam from 1687 to 1775. During this time, the nine Ngyuen Lords ruled until the last was conquered in 1775. It then went on to become the administrative centre from 1788 until 1801. The buildings fell into ruin but thankfully over time they are being restored to their former glory.
Driving a short distance, we are now visiting the Royal Mausoleum to learn a little more about the last Emperor and the end of the Nguyen Dynasty, which took place in 1945. The day is a long one and yet we still feel enthusiasm to learn about the heartland and the country’s beginnings.
Mausoleum for the last Emperor
As if we need more food and yet here we are walking along the beach in the evening light towards a great café with comfy bean bags, nice snacks and great cocktails. You may notice a theme here, and if you are guessing that cocktails are well-priced, you would be absolutely correct. Such is the life here in Vietnam.
You have several choices when visiting this part of the country with beautiful Hoi An only a 20 minute drive south. This may not be much, but when you consider the distances in the opposite direction to visit Hue and Ling Ung, I still believe that Da Nang is the best option before moving on to Hoi An.
Hoi An
With the South China Sea as your backdrop and the quaint cream low-set bungalows wrapped in soft green palms dotting the roadside, it is easy to fall in love with the rustic ambience of the journey. Hoi An offers two choices when it comes to accommodation, Old Town or the beautiful beachside at places like Palm Garden Resort with sweeping views of the ocean, stunning manicured lawns and a swimming pool the size of a small lake. They offer a shuttle service in and out of the Old Town, but you will need to take a taxi in the evening back to the resort, costing between 100,000 and 120,000 dong. This equates to between $6 and $8 Australian.
It is very easy to be caught up in the hive of activity in Hoi An and this may result in you spending more than you bargained for. Know your pricing and don’t be in a hurry when you start looking.
Here are a few tips for shopping in Old Town.
- Not all leather is the same. The notion of custom-made shoes and designer handbags is a tempting one. There are different grades of leather so when placing an order, be sure to only pay a deposit. If the store is insisting on payment in full, walk away. If they really want your business, they will agree to your demands. When you pick up your goods, you then have the flexibility of checking the item and knowing that it matches your expectations.
- The first price isn’t always the best price. The old saying ‘they see a tourist from a mile off’ is very apt here. Remember, you can always come back later; the town isn’t all that big.
- The choices of restaurants across the river are endless. Some of our favourites are Madam Kieu, the Shamrock Pub and the newly opened Ngon. If you love street food, you can make a meal of octopus tentacles, and if you do, you are braver than we were.
- If you are offered a taxi in the street, you can usually find them to be good. There are also many to choose from near the terminus.
- We were there early November and yet it was still very humid. What follows is rain so an umbrella is a good idea, even for the sun.
- Comfortable shoes are a must.
- There are a lot of tailors in the streets, some recommended by the hotels – obviously kickbacks – and others where you are approached as soon as you alight from the shuttle. None are cheap, and in fact, you can do better at home. Ready made is well priced but in some cases not cheap. If you do choose to have something made, give yourself plenty of time as it is usually next day.
- Changing money is easy and ATM’s are available with reasonable rates. Some take credit cards – like restaurants – but it pays to have local Dong on hand at all times.
- And lastly that big question – tipping. You will hear people say that tipping is not mandatory but we found that even a small amount is appreciated. Sometimes it can be 10% depending on the service and the number of people. For a couple around 100,000 dong for a good service is always well received. Just remember that there is no rule as to the amount and you should think of it as something that you want to do, not have to do.
Exploring Hoi An
When in Vietnam, there are some things you should try, and one is Butterfly Pea Iced Tea. Not everyone has it but you cannot miss the rich purple colour derived from the flower.
No matter where you are, you are spoilt for choice. Vietnam pulls out all stops for culture, food and crafts to make sure your holiday experience is one you will always remember as one of your greatest journeys. Thinking Vietnam? Get in touch to experience the colours of nature for yourself.
