Arrive as a visitor, leave as a friend. I smiled a little reading the slogan as we drove into Motswari Private Game Reserve. It seemed a little like a cliche that every safari lodge tries. However, in a lodge with just four rooms, eight guests and a team of staff, perhaps on our visit to Motswari a slogan would come to fruition.
It had been two and a half years since we’d had Australian staff on the ground in South Africa. I made it back home from Ethiopia with hours to spare when the border closed in 2020. Nobody could have predicted what the next two years would hold for our country, home to the best-travelled people on the planet. But with that behind us, I set off to Johannesburg on the same Singapore Airlines flight that had comfortably carried me so many times before. A quick Airlink hop on a former Virgin E-Jet (still sporting the signature purple interior) and I’m back in the Timbavati. By this time, we were well and truly ready for our visit to Motswari!
With not a mask in sight, it’s almost like nothing ever happened. Motswari had been on my list for many years. The Timbavati is my favourite Kruger reserve. However, we’d previously partnered with another lodge. While the main camp at Motswari was certainly appealing, what twigged my attention was the rather unique Geiger’s Camp. Named after the owners, it is an exclusive bush house that features high-end lodgings for only eight guests. This is a level of exclusivity that cannot be matched by any other lodge in the reserve.
We are warmly welcomed by the host, Tim, with a drink on the deck. He provides a detailed rundown on the lodge, its facilities, what is on offer and who is on hand to serve. We receive a tour of the common areas which have a wonderful, laid-back vibe. Tim opens a fully stocked beer and wine fridge and says with a smile “just help yourself, saves finding a bartender, it’s all included”. The Aussies will love this, I smile to myself.
Tim shows us to our room. I say room, as it’s technically one building, however, the design leads one to believe they are a standalone bungalow. The rooms are huge, immaculate, air-conditioned and a perfect reflection of their bush locality. Beds are large and comfortable, there’s a modern bathroom, an outdoor shower and a lovely balcony for enjoying the afternoon sun.
We meet our guide and tracker (critically, a tracker joins each vehicle on each drive – big tick) and we set off on the afternoon drive. It quickly floods back to me. The reserve is undoubtedly one of Africa’s best. Within the first hours, we’re in the midst of a herd of elephants, watching rhinos wake from their afternoon naps and following a pride of lions prepare for their night ahead. This is all under the forever-watching eyes of a guide who is taking in his guest's reactions and planning their remaining drives.
Returning to Geiger’s, the true benefit of this exclusive lodge starts to shine through. As a travel professional, I’m very good at observing how support staff interact with guests. I witness an exceptionally competent team build a personal rapport with their clients. The Chef, Grace (truly one of the best I’ve crossed in South Africa) builds a unique daily menu that builds on the feedback from guests. Tim knows exactly what each guest drinks and makes sure a glass is never empty. This is a personal touch that is extremely hard to replicate at large lodges, and something I have never seen done so well anywhere in Africa.
As I sit on a flight back to Cape Town now and look back on our visit to Motswari, I can only reflect with admiration on just how great a lodge Geiger’s really is. I’ve lost track of everywhere I’ve visited across Southern Africa, but I do know that few have left me feeling as satisfied as I am now. From amazing game drives, wonderful accommodation and a unique level of exclusive service, I feel Motswari have really hit the mark with this lodge. As we climbed into the car to head to the airport, one of my marketing staff remarked “it feels a bit sad. It’s like we’re saying goodbye to friends”. I guess the slogan was right, after all.
